Getting off the beaten track when travelling is no mean achievement in today’s world of mass tourism - especially in countries like Spain whose growing population hit 49 million last year.

In the first of their Spanish Roadtrip 2026 articles, our Lifestyle and Leisure Editor, Sharon Cain, her husband Steve, our series photographer, and golden retriever, Bracken, found a solution to explore city and coast in Andalucia to avoid city centre traffic pitfalls.

During the next leg of their motorhome adventures they discover their very own haven of tranquillity in Andalucia - a diverse, bustling region spanning the snow-caped peaks of Sierra Nevada, volcanic landscapes and tropical shores of the Costa del Sol.

Haven of Serenity

After an exhilarating time exploring Malaga’s chic city, we were seeking serenity - an aspiration easier said than done in Andalucia, Spain’s pulsating, populated province.

While exploring the area known as the Axarquia region, we could not believe our luck in finding our very own version of paradise in the village of La Viñuela - an original resting place for mule drivers surrounded by dramatic mountains.

Captivating in every sense, an abundance of olives, mangoes, avocado groves, almonds and citrus fruits reflects the region’s agricultural richness.

Just 40 minutes from Malaga and 20 minutes from the coastal town of Torre del Mar, the village’s pièce de resistance is sensational Lake Viñuela, a man-made reservoir framed by whitewashed villages and verdant landscapes.

We were fortunate to see the area at its most lush after recent storms. At full capacity the lake holds 170 million litres of water, the equivalent of 68 Olympic sized swimming pools. In 2025 water levels plummeted to a record low due to a prolonged drought, a situation addressed by the heavy rains early this year.

To say we were ecstatic at finding such a treasure is an understatement. However, on discovering the area's only campsite was full and could only accommodate a tent, the most pressing question was where to park our motorhome overnight.

On our first evening we salivated over delicious fish dishes and delectable lakeside views at Restaurante El Pantono where the Manager let us stay in their car park.

On checking out the local scene and meeting some residents, a friendly Brit called Tim graciously offered us the use of an empty plot of land he had purchased overlooking the lake. All we had to do was ensure the chain and padlock at the plot entrance were secure when we went exploring.

Beyond grateful for such kindness and hospitality, we stayed there for twelve glorious days, thanking our host with presents when we finally dragged ourselves away.

Our travel plans for discovering other Spanish regions were put on hold for this precious experience which included watching locals, predominantly Spanish, enthusiastically forage for asparagus around the lake to enrich their soups and meals.

The area is a dream for hiking, picnicking, water sports (motorized water sports are banned). We took long, leisurely walks around the lake - winding down to a level we could never have imagined.

Moody Mountain Range

At over 500 metres above sea level, the setting of La Viñuela and its lake is sublime.

Keeping watch over its 2,000 inhabitants, called viñoleros, is the summit of La Maroma. The highest peak of the Sierra de Tejeda mountain range, it is one of three peaks which make up a stunning national park or ‘Natural Park’ as they are called in Spain, with a wealth of pine forests and caves.

Geographically and historically significant, the caves were a hide out for smugglers and bandits centuries ago - and a bolt hole where anti-Franco guerrillas stashed their arms during the Spanish Civil War.

Resolving ‘Off Grid’ Practicalities

Being ‘off grid’ without electricity, water or waste facilities for 12 days, can be challenging. On this occasion it all fell smoothly into place.

We bought coffees and a few lunches - the salads are amazing - at the B Bou Hotel La Viñuela and Spa, a 10-minute walk from our park up, where we charged our phones, laptops, and phone power packs.

Widely acknowledged as the best rural hotel in the Malaga province, the prime lakeside and mountain location along with its elegant décor and stunning gardens made it a joy to catch up on work and revise our travel plans.

Moving onto the less glamorous but more critical elements, water and waste disposal were sorted at a garage in Velez Malaga which provided facilities for motorhomes and campervans.

Just a short hop from the lake, Velez Malaga, Malaga’s ‘sister’ city, is one of Moorish origin and historical importance. It is also the European capital for cultivating tropical fruits including mango and avocado.

The centre buzzed with activity and we joined locals at an outside café in streaming sunshine while we devoured addictive cortado coffees and tostadas, a staple Andalucian breakfast or snack with different tasty toppings.

Whiter Than White: Pueblo Blancos

The Axarquia region is the ultimate backdrop for Pueblo Blancos, traditional whitewashed villages.

Among my favourites is Frigliana, an hour east of Malaga and high above the coastal town of Nerja with striking Mediterranean views.

Attractions include quaint winding, cobblestone streets, fountains, walks and a Renaissance palace. As with many destinations, it is best enjoyed out of season.

Hidden in the mountains 15 minutes away is Acebuchal, an adorable Pueblo Blanco with a fascinating history.

A former meeting place for travelling merchants, the village became a ghost town when Franco closed it during the Spanish Civil War because he feared it was harbouring republican rebels.

In a fairly-tale ending, Acebuchal was rescued from decline almost 50 years later by a couple from Frigliana who bought property in the village, triggering its renaissance.

The couple’s sons, whose grandfather originated from the village, run the Bar Restaurante El Acebuchal. We enjoyed a coffee there with friends, reflecting on this inspirational story of resilience.

While my addiction to Andalucia and its fusion of culture, colour, cuisine and jaw-dropping scenery was growing stronger by the day, reality set in and we headed north to continue our journey.

This particular segment of our Spanish roadtrip 2026 - and the unexpected joy of coming across Lake Viñuela - encapsulated everything we love about the freedom and flexibility of motorhoming.

My ultimate highlight? Being transfixed by twinkling lights shimmering on the lake as daylight transcended into dusk - and pinching myself to ensure the magic was real and not a fleeting figment of my imagination.


TRAVEL FACTS
For information on Andalucia visit here
For information on La Viñuela visit here
For information on Frigliana visit here
For information on Acebuchal visit here
For information on Velez Malaga visit here