Scotland’s wild and rugged islands include the Orkney Islands off the Scottish mainland - and the Shetland Islands situated between Orkney, the Faroe Islands, and Norway.

The wanderlust of our Lifestyle & Leisure Editor, Sharon Cain, series Photographer, Steve Hare, and golden retriever, Bracken, has seen them travel almost 4,000 land miles in their motorhome on a land and sea adventure which also took in 26 boat journeys to 15 islands.

Their ultimate destination - Unst in the Shetlands - is the UK’s most northerly point with a remarkable history of Viking heritage and sensational scenery.

Awe-Inspiring Orkney: The Italian Chapel

Our explorations had taken us up Scotland's west coast to the iconic signpost at John o’ Groats which symbolises the road journey from mainland Scotland to the Orkney Islands.

Landing on the Orkney’s stunning archipelago of 70 islands, our first port of call was the Italian Chapel on the uninhabited isle of Lamb Holm - a profoundly emotional experience.

Here we learnt how Italian prisoners of war were transported to the Orkneys during World War II to help build the Churchill Barriers – improved defences and causeways protecting the British fleet from German U-boats.

When Italy’s surrender to the allies in 1943 gave the prisoners more freedom, they harnessed their skills and ingenuity to construct the chapel from two Nissen huts and materials they had scavenged.

A haven of spirituality, the chapel’s interior is a true work of art painted to look like brick walls and carved with frescos of angelic figures, stained glass windows, and an exquisite altarpiece depicting Madonna and Child.

The Italians left in September 1944, when the Churchill Barriers were finished. However, the chapel’s remarkable and dedicated project leader, Domenico Chiocchetti, returned in 1960 to assist the restoration work. On leaving he wrote a letter to the people of Orkney.

The chapel is yours - for you to love and preserve. I take with me to Italy the remembrance of your kindness and wonderful hospitality. I thank all those who directly or indirectly have collaborated for the success of this work and for having given me the joy of seeing again the little chapel of Lambholm where I, in leaving, leave a part of my heart.

Geographical Wonder: Old Man of Hoy

The Orkneys abound with fascinating landmarks including The Old Man of Hoy, a dramatic 449 foot sea stack on the island of Hoy formed from old red sandstone.

The six mile trek to the sea stack amid blankets of heather and vibrant flora and fauna, was rewarded with spectacular view over the cliffs which had been carved out over millions of years.

Arriving there via a foot passenger ferry from Stromness to Rackwick Bay, the great skuas, known as bonxies, who can be aggressive, also caught our attention. Hovering above us during our walk, the bulky,dark seabirds were taking too close an interest in Bracken for my liking.

Westray: Queen of the Orkneys

For beach lovers, exploring the Orkneys would not be complete without venturing to the island of Westray in the far northwest.

With a population of around 550, and covering just 18.2 square miles, the island offers a wealth of archaeological treasures, neolithic and Viking history, wildlife and sea cliffs.

We had thought our car ferry there was a short hop at 85 minutes - until we learnt the air trip from Kirkwall to the North Isles includes the world’s shortest flight between the islands of Westray and Papa Westray, is just 90 seconds.

Westray is also blessed with some of the world’s best beaches. Our favourite, Grobust, with raging waves and pristine golden shores is where Bracken had the time of his life.

Venturing To The Furthermost North

Our longest sea journey to Scotland’s remote locations was an overnight boat from Kirkwall to Lerwick, the Shetland’s main town and bustling commercial and tourist port.

Having cought up on lost sleep at a remote park up, we sailed to the island of Yell, an oasis of peace, wildlife and wildflowers where a Shetland pony greets visitors alighting from the boat.

Owned and cared for by local crofters, the animals originated in the Shetland Isles in the Bronze Age and have stayed here ever since. We went in search of otters but had missed them, as evidenced by a trail of empty crab shells. I conjured up images of the furry creatures licking their lips after a shellfish feast. Yell is also home to plovers, puffins, grey seals and common seals.

Unst: Land of Vikings

With just 644 residents across 46 square miles, Unst, Britain’s most northerly inhabited island, houses the remains of 60 longhouses - more than in the whole of Scandinavia.

The island is reputed to be among the first places in the North Atlantic where the Vikings set foot in the 9th century.

Our final destination, the Hermaness Nature Reserve - a cliff top haven perched 170 metres above the sea - was a defining moment in our explorations. Over 100,000 birds from 15 breeding species live here including gulls, shags, puffins, kittiwakes and gannets - the latter dive bombing for tasty morsels.

Setting out six weeks earlier in the border town of Berwick-Upon-Tweed, at Unst we had reached a point where going forward was not an option. Beyond us lay the North Pole with Norway only a few miles east.

The remote nature of some of the islands we had explored - and the freedom to experience them in a motorhome - was intoxicating. Like an addictive love affair we keep returning for a fix of this land of awe and wonder.

TRAVEL FACTS
Visit Scotland
Visit Shetland
Orkney.com

Ferries
Caledonian MacBrayne Ferries
Direct Ferries

Campsites
Pitch Up
Camping and Caravanning Club
Camping and Motorhome Club